My daughter, Hillary, and I are staying with my mom in Maine for a few months while she recovers from radiation treatment. We are enjoying spending time with her and watching the snow fall. It is wonderful to be with the two most beautiful women in the world. We love just talking, playing card games and my mom and I love to give Hillary dating advice (and I have to say that she graciously takes it silently). Here are a few pictures from last week.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Friday, January 30, 2009
Free Crochet Bunny Pattern From Lion Brand Yarn
Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice
Amigurumi Heartfelt Bunny
Pattern Number: 80018AD
SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size
11 1/2 in. (29.5 cm) tall
CORRECTIONS: None
MATERIALS
• 860-101 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Pink
1 Ball (A)
Free Crochet Pattern: Vanna's Choice Amigurumi Heartfelt Bunny http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/patternView.fcgi?80018AD=1&pdf=1...
2 of 3 5/13/2008 4:41 PM
• 860-100 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: White
1 Ball (B)
• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size G-6
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
• Additional Materials
2 plastic safety eyes, 6 mm diameter
Fiberfill stuffing
STITCH EXPLANATION:
sc2tog (sc decrease) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a
loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
NOTES:
Work in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.
HEAD AND BODY
Beg at top of Head, with A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch.
Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 sts.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around - 18 sts.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around - 24 sts.
Rnd 5: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around - 30 sts.
Rnds 6-12: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 13: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around - 24 sts.
Rnd 14: *Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around - 18 sts.
Beg stuffing Head and Body.
Rnd 15: *Sc2tog, sc in next st; rep from * around - 12 sts.
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 17: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around - 18 sc.
Rnd 18: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around - 24 sts.
Rnds 19-30: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 31: *Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around - 18 sts.
Finish stuffing Head and Body.
Rnd 32: *Sc2tog, sc in next st; rep from * around - 12 sts.
Rnd 33: (Sc2tog) around - 6 sts.
Fasten off.
FACE
With B, ch 2.
Rnds 1-5: Work Rnds 1-5 of Head - 30 sts.
Fasten off.
LEGS (make 2)
With B, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in first ch.
Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around - 8 sts.
Rnds 3-15: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off.
ARMS (make 2)
With B, ch 2.
Rnds 1-12: Work Rnds 1-12 of Legs.
Fasten off.
EARS (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in first ch.
Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * once more - 6 sts.
Free Crochet Pattern: Vanna's Choice Amigurumi Heartfelt Bunny http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/patternView.fcgi?80018AD=1&pdf=1...
3 of 3 5/13/2008 4:41 PM
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * once more - 8 sts.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * once more - 10 sts.
Rnd 5: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * once more - 12 sts.
Rnds 6-11: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 12: (Sc2tog) around - 6 sts.
Fasten off.
TAIL
With B, ch 2.
Rnds 1 and 2: Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Head - 12 sts.
Rnds 3 and 4: Sc in each st around.
Stuff lightly.
Rnd 5: (Sc2tog) around - 6 sts.
Fasten off.
HEART
With B, ch 4.
Rnd 1: 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch; working along opposite side of beg ch, hdc in next
ch, (2 dc, slip st) in last ch.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Following package directions, attach safety eyes to Face. Sew Face to Head, and Ears to top of Head. Stuff Arms
and Legs lightly and sew to Body. Sew Tail to Body. Sew Heart onto Bunny. With A, embroider a straight st nose.
Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
sc = single crochet st(s) = stitch(es)
Learn to crochet instructions: http://learnToCrochet.LionBrand.com
Every effort has been made to have the knitting and crochet instructions accurate and complete. We cannot be responsible for variance of
individual knitters and crocheters, human errors, or typographical mistakes.
*Vanna's Choice® (Article #860) is a 4-ply worsted-weight 100% acrylic yarn. • Solids in 3.5
oz/100g (170 yd/156 m) balls • Prints in 3 oz/85 g (145 yd/133 m) balls 100% acrylic
We want your project to be a success! If you need help with this or any other Lion Brand pattern, e-mail support is
available 7 days per week. Just click here to explain your problem and someone will help you!
For hundreds of free patterns, visit our website www.LionBrand.com
To order visit our website www.e-yarn.com or call: (800) 258-YARN (9276) any time!
Copyright ©1998-2008 Lion Brand Yarn Company, all rights reserved. No pattern or other material may be
reproduced -- mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying -- without written
permission of Lion Brand Yarn Company. If you would like to send a copy of this page to someone, click here and
we will be happy to do it for you.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Wow, now that's tiny
This is a great video of miniture knitting. I have never seen anything like this. She woman is knitting appeal for tiny characters for an upcoming movie. Check it out!
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Some Basic Knitting Guides
Yarn Weights
Yarn is divided into weights. Heavy, worsted weight, sport weight etc…this is how you’ll find them categorized in a yarn shop. But, what does it mean?
It simply means how thin or thick they are. In other words, their correct gauge. Gauge is: How many stitches per inch. Here’s the breakdown from thin to thick:
Fingering: (aka baby yarn) 7-9 stitches per inch.
Sport: 6 stitches per inch
Double Knitting: (aka DK - not as common, but needs to be mentioned.) 5.5 stitches per inch.
Worsted: 5 stitches per inch
Heavy: 4 stitches per inch
Bulky: 3 stitches per inch
Super Bulky: 2-2.5 stitches per inch.
What all this means is…these gauges are where these specific yarns will look their best. Example: If you knit a bulky weight yarn on tiny needles (well, first, your fingers would cramp terribly!) but the end result would be rather bulletproof. On the other extreme…knitting a fingering weight yarn on big huge needles would result in something rather net like. All knitters knit differently…some tight, some loose. So needle size to obtain the proper gauge will vary from knitter to knitter. All patterns give you the specific gauge for that particular pattern. This needs to be accurate to achieve the proper size. A pattern will also give you a suggested needle size. Play around with it until it’s right. By doing this you’ll save lots of time and heartache. We all have our horror stories….
Gauge
Gauge = number of stitches per inch. If a pattern tells you to cast on 100 stitches for the back of a sweater, and it calls for a gauge of 5 sts per inch. Then: 100 ÷ 5 = 20. 20 inches. If your gauge was off…even by half an inch…then: 100 ÷ 5.5 = 18.8 inches or if the gauge was off the other way, 100 ÷ 4.5 = 22 inches. Remember this measurement is just for the back, so the entire sweater size would be off by up to 4 inches! In other words…gauge is important.
Ply
Ply is how many strands are twisted together to create yarn. There are 1 ply bulky weights, and 4 ply sport weights. Generally, the more ply…the stronger the yarn.
Needles
There are so many different types of knitting needles today. Work with what you like…but here are a few suggestions.
Wooden needles are nice, but tend to be slow. So wood works well with slick yarns. Slow yarns, such as cotton and thick synthetics, work best with fast needles, such as Teflon coated aluminum. Play around with them, and you’ll find your favorite combinations.
Yarn is divided into weights. Heavy, worsted weight, sport weight etc…this is how you’ll find them categorized in a yarn shop. But, what does it mean?
It simply means how thin or thick they are. In other words, their correct gauge. Gauge is: How many stitches per inch. Here’s the breakdown from thin to thick:
Fingering: (aka baby yarn) 7-9 stitches per inch.
Sport: 6 stitches per inch
Double Knitting: (aka DK - not as common, but needs to be mentioned.) 5.5 stitches per inch.
Worsted: 5 stitches per inch
Heavy: 4 stitches per inch
Bulky: 3 stitches per inch
Super Bulky: 2-2.5 stitches per inch.
What all this means is…these gauges are where these specific yarns will look their best. Example: If you knit a bulky weight yarn on tiny needles (well, first, your fingers would cramp terribly!) but the end result would be rather bulletproof. On the other extreme…knitting a fingering weight yarn on big huge needles would result in something rather net like. All knitters knit differently…some tight, some loose. So needle size to obtain the proper gauge will vary from knitter to knitter. All patterns give you the specific gauge for that particular pattern. This needs to be accurate to achieve the proper size. A pattern will also give you a suggested needle size. Play around with it until it’s right. By doing this you’ll save lots of time and heartache. We all have our horror stories….
Gauge
Gauge = number of stitches per inch. If a pattern tells you to cast on 100 stitches for the back of a sweater, and it calls for a gauge of 5 sts per inch. Then: 100 ÷ 5 = 20. 20 inches. If your gauge was off…even by half an inch…then: 100 ÷ 5.5 = 18.8 inches or if the gauge was off the other way, 100 ÷ 4.5 = 22 inches. Remember this measurement is just for the back, so the entire sweater size would be off by up to 4 inches! In other words…gauge is important.
Ply
Ply is how many strands are twisted together to create yarn. There are 1 ply bulky weights, and 4 ply sport weights. Generally, the more ply…the stronger the yarn.
Needles
There are so many different types of knitting needles today. Work with what you like…but here are a few suggestions.
Wooden needles are nice, but tend to be slow. So wood works well with slick yarns. Slow yarns, such as cotton and thick synthetics, work best with fast needles, such as Teflon coated aluminum. Play around with them, and you’ll find your favorite combinations.
Friday, January 16, 2009
Back in the Day
As I mentioned before, I found a great knitting book from 1920 in my Grandmother's attic and I am adding a lot of the patterns one at a time to my blog. As I type them in, I notice that they are written as if EVERYONE knew how to knit. I talked to my mom (88 years old) about this and she said, "Well, everyone did know how to knit..and sew and cook and embroider and set a proper table." They were taught from an early age to be wonderful wives and mothers. I just wonder what the world (and our children) wouuld be like today if those things didn't change. If women were content with staying at home raising their children and creating a 1920 home. Something to think about.
Men's Fingerless Gloves 1920 Pattern
Knitted plain (except for the ribbing, to give elasticity at the wrist) these mittens are simple to make ad very comfortable to wear, especially where the fingers require to be free.
Materials: 2-1/2 oz 3-ply double knitting wool. Four #11 knitting needles.
Cast on 52 stitches, 18 on each of two needles and 16 on a third. Work, in rib of K2 and P2 for 36 rounds. Work 10 rounds in plain knitting.
47th round - commencing the thumb, P1, increase once in the next stitch (by knitting through the loop just underneath the next stitch, then knitting the next stitch). K2, increase once in teh next stitch, P1, knit to the end of the round. The 2 purled stitches mark the outside of the thumb. *Knit 2 rounds plain, but purling the stitches that were purled in the previous round.
50th round - Increase once on the inside of each of the purled stitches, then knit plain to the end of the round. Repeat from * until there are 18 stitches between the 2 purled stitches. Knit 2 more rounds without increasing: then in the next round, K1 (the purled stitch), leave them for the thumb, cast 4 stitches after the K1 follow on and finish the round. Work 10 rounds, in rib of K2 and P2 and cast off loosely. For the thumb, take up the 18 stitches that were left on the thread and divide them onto two needles; with the third needle knit up 6 stitches along the space between the two needles. Knit 6 rounds in plain knitting. Then work 6rounds in rib of K2 and P2 and cast off loosely.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Kid's Sock Pattern
Materials:
Yarn: One skein sock yarn (yarn that makes its own design is great)
Needles: Size 1US/2.25 mm set of five double point needles
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Holder
Marker
Gauge: 8 stitches= 1"/2.3 cm
Finished Dimensions:
To fit a small child.
Directions:
How I made my sock. I cat on 50 stitches, then placed them on four needles in this manner:
Needle 1: 10 stitches
Needle 2: 10 stitches
Needle 3: 15 stitches
Needle 4: 15 stitches
I joined the yarn being careful not to twist, and then knit all the stitches around in 4 rounds.
On the next round, I began my cuff ribbing.
Ribbing: I did a K3, P2 ribbing until the cuff/leg area measured 2-3/4" from the cast-on edge to the heel beginning.
Heel: I worked my heel on 20 stitches only, using the last 10 stitches from Needle 1 and the first 10 stitches from Needle 4. I placed the remaining 30 unused stitches (instep stitches on a stitch holder).
Row 1: slip 1, K 1 across, turn
Row 2: slip 1, Purl all stitches across
I repeated these 2 rows for 1-1/2"
Heel turning: I gave it my usual box-like heel in this manner:
Row 1: K10, place marker, K3, slip1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 2: Purl to marker, P3, P2together, P1, turn.
I repeated these 2 rows until all stitches were worked.
Gussets: With Needle 1, pick up and knit stitches along the left heel flap.
With Needles 2 and 3, knit the 30 instep stitches from the stitch holder.
With Needle 4, pick up and knit the same number of stitches along the right heel flap as left heel flap.
Next round, I knit all stitches around.
Gussets Decrease: Round 1: Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog., K1.
Needles 2 and 3: continue in K3, P2 ribbing pattern.
Needle 4: K1, slip 1, K1, passo, knit to end.
Round 2: On Needles 1 and 4, knit all stitches.
On Needles 2 and 3, continue in K3, P2 ribbing pattern. Repeat these 2 rounds until you have original 50 cast-on stitches.
Foot: I continued in knit round 2 for 3". Knit the foot to desired length. On the last round before starting toe, decrease 2 stitches evenly. You will now have 48 stitches.
Toe: I decided to give my sock a Round Toe because I thought it would work well for this very small sock. Here's how I did mine:
Round 1: K4, K2tog. around.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Round 3: K3, K2tog. around.
Round 4: Knit all stitches.
Round 5: K2, K2tog. around.
Round 6: Knit all stitches.
Round 7: K1, K2tog. around.
Round 8: Knit all stitches.
Round 9: K2tog. around
Cut yarn, leaving an ample tail.
Finishing: Thread yarn into tapestry needle, then into remaining stitches. Pull tightly and tie off. Weave in loose ends.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Getting To Know Me ~ Getting To Know More About Me!
Knitting in Grandmother's Attic
When my grandmother passed away many years ago, each of the grandchildren were allowed to pick one item we wanted to from her possessions. I chose "A Practical Guide to Knitting and Crochet with Beehive & white Heather Knittings Wools" book. I was only 12 years old but already a knitter. This book is filled with old patterns from a company in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada (where my grandmother was from). I'm going to post some of the patterns from this book. I can't imagine anyone would care if I shared them; I mean the book is aboutt 100 years old. I don't know the exact year it was published because the cover was off when I got it. I hope you enjoy these great old patterns. I'll post one every so often. There are some really fund ones and others that are quite strange! Enjoy
Infant Bonnet Pattern from the 1920's
Materials: 1 oz. white and 1/2 oz colored 4-ply fingering yarn. #8 knitting needles. 1-1/2 yds. ribbon.
Work at a tension to produce about 6-3/5 stitches and 13 rows to the inch.
Using the colored wool, cast on 80 stitches.
Work 12 rows in plain knitting.
Fastening off the colored wool, join up the white and work five inches in plain knitting. Then shape for the crown as follows:~
Knit together every 9th and 10th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 8th and 9th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 7th and 8th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 6th and 7th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 5th and 6th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 4th and 5th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 3rd and 4th stitch.
Fasten off and run a thread through the remaining stitches, drawing them up and darning in the end very securely. Sew together the two shaped edges of the crown. Taking the colored wool, knit up one stitch to each ridge at the neck of the bonnet, but missing 9 ridges at each edge for the fold over at the front.
Work 6 rows in plain knitting. Cast off.
Add rosettes made from the ribbon to each side of the bonnet.
Work at a tension to produce about 6-3/5 stitches and 13 rows to the inch.
Using the colored wool, cast on 80 stitches.
Work 12 rows in plain knitting.
Fastening off the colored wool, join up the white and work five inches in plain knitting. Then shape for the crown as follows:~
Knit together every 9th and 10th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 8th and 9th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 7th and 8th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 6th and 7th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 5th and 6th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 4th and 5th stitch.
Knit 3 rows without shaping.
In the next row knit together every 3rd and 4th stitch.
Fasten off and run a thread through the remaining stitches, drawing them up and darning in the end very securely. Sew together the two shaped edges of the crown. Taking the colored wool, knit up one stitch to each ridge at the neck of the bonnet, but missing 9 ridges at each edge for the fold over at the front.
Work 6 rows in plain knitting. Cast off.
Add rosettes made from the ribbon to each side of the bonnet.
Monday, January 5, 2009
A New Beginning
I've decided to make the plunge and change my Etsy username. I've had 81 sales and 67 positive feedbacks but my old name, Bagladybags, never really described what type of bags I make. People thought I made purses instead of needlework bags. So, I decided to switch over and start all over again. All over again means my blog, flickr, myspace, twitter, plumdrop, indiepublic, we love etsy, and on and on but I think it will be worth it. Stay tuned to watch my shop grow and my blog grow as well. I have some fun things planned for all your knitters out there!
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